Apple and quince are coolingly laced with mint and wintergreen (decidedly reminiscent of the corresponding Bernkasteler) but also, quite unexpectedly, joined by banana, mango and muskmelon for an unusually exotic expression of Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett that is as luscious in the mouth as it is heady on the nose. Lily and heliotrope contribute to the wines head-turning aromatic intensity and their inner-mouth perfume to the allure of a subtly creamy palate. For all of its unusually advanced sense of ripeness for a Kabinett, this projects remarkable delicacy and a focused sense of stone, fruit and floral interface in its lingering finish. (The Prüms are fond of observing that their Wehlener Sonnenuhr is usually slower to show itself than others of their wines, but that certainly isnt the case with this 2015.) -- David Schildknecht